I have a 1999 BMW 323i which the ac was working perfectly fine. My instrument panel for the ac/heater blipped and went black, which shut down my ac. Now nothing turns on, defroster, ac, heater, fan speed, temperature control; nothing lights up. I checked the fuses and they are all fine.
126 posts · Joined 2013. #3 · Feb 15, 2016. It cranked slow this morning but it was very cold. I put the heat on auto and came back 15 minutes later to a cold interior with no heat blowing. It came on full when switching to windshield defrost. During the trip to work I tried other heating options which all shut off the fan completely.
The heater fan doesn't work and it's not the controller/resistor pack/Output Final Stage (new one fitted B64.11.9.146.765) and not the fan (works fine with 12v applied) and not the wiring to the climate head unit. The power and earths to the fan controller also check out fine. The fault code from the scanner is 9C97 Front Stratification
193 posts · Joined 2012. #1 · Nov 16, 2013. 2007 x3 3.0 si. Passenger side works fine. The green light on the button doesn't light up and the seat no longer generates heat for the driver side. The fuses diagram found in the vehicle indicate the heat should be 12, 31, 51, 61. The only ones that I find labeled are 51 and 61.
F35 = 5A, (empty in my 2002 525i) Rear A/C blower. F36 = Open (empty in my 2002 525i) F37 = 5A, Immobilizer. F38 = 5A, Horn, Shifting gate illumination. F39 = 7.5A, Charging socket, Courtesy mirror illumination [ professorman says it's also for the glovebox flashlight charger] F40 = 5A, Airbag, Instrument cluster.
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1) Fan goes nuts. Fan runs too fast, he can even hear it with music on. Fan going-nuts does sound like airplane's flying by. 2) Engine overheats. Temperature gauge stays at 6(middle), and slowly goes down toward 7(red zone) as fan goes nuts. Stays near red zone(2-3bars), then gauge drops to red zone and iDrive displays overheating warning message.
New.Water Pump not working. I have a 2008 328i and replaced the water pump and thermostat. The pump still doesn't work. I checked the fuse in the right side of the engine compartment, and the 2 fuses under the dash. Plus the fuses over the battery. All is ok. I have 12 volts at the pump in 2 places, and checked ground connection at the pump.
1. Pull the female terminal connector from the dual-temp switch. 2. With a voltmeter and the ignition turned to the run position, check between terminal 1 on the female connnector and ground for 12V. 3. Turn the ignition off and rig up a jumper wire between green/black and and black on the female connector.
oQO4j. bmw e90 heater fan not working
